Getting to Cilaos: road, journey time and tips
How long the drive takes
- From Saint-Louis: around 1 h 15 to 1 h 30 for 35 km.
- From Saint-Pierre: around 1 h 45.
- From Saint-Denis: 2 h 15 to 2 h 45 depending on coastal-road traffic.
- From Roland Garros airport: allow 2 h 30 — not ideal straight after an overnight long-haul flight.
What the RN5 is like
A narrow mountain road carved into the cliff, with more than 400 bends, several single-lane tunnels and blind sections. It is well maintained and used daily by buses, but it demands constant attention and slow driving.
- Crawl through the tunnels and give a short horn before blind bends.
- Let local vehicles pass: they know the road and you are not in a hurry.
- Avoid driving up at night on a first visit.
- In heavy rain, check the road status before leaving: rockfalls can close it temporarily.
Motion sickness: the real issue
Many passengers, including those who are never carsick, struggle on this road. Sit in the front, look far ahead, open a window, avoid a heavy meal beforehand, and plan a stop halfway.
Getting there without a car
Regional yellow buses link Saint-Louis to Cilaos several times a day. It is cheap and restful, but timetables are tight: check the last departure, especially on Sundays. Once there, the village is walkable.
Once you arrive
If you arrive before check-in, or set off hiking the next morning, sort the car and bags first: the vehicle in supervised parking and the bags in storage, and the trip actually begins.
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